Costuming

1890s Umbreon: Concept Development

I’m going to be posting somewhat non-chronologically for a bit. I’d like to post the whole process of 1860s Zelda, but that process took place from early 2021 to mid-2022, as in, The Past. But I’d also like to keep up with my current projects. Therefore, I give you: 1890s Umbreon.


I’ve just started work on my next, and second, historical costume. Instead of staying with the same era as my first, like a sensible person, I’ve decided to jump ahead three decades so that I have to make entirely new underpinnings before starting the costume itself. And to be honest, none of the concepts I have in the pipeline are in the same era as each other. The benefit to this, in the long term, is that eventually I’ll be able to jump start future projects because I’ll already have underpinnings suitable for a wide range of decades.

(This is kind of like when I tell myself that buying perennializing fall bulbs for the garden means I won’t have to buy as many next year. I always buy as many next year.)

The good thing is, my trusty Truly Victorian 110 (TV110) corset, which I originally made for another cosplay (Stripper Jessie and James from Pokemon, maybe I’ll blog about that one one day) should do me pretty well through the mid- to late 19th century, so I’m not planning to make a new corset for this.

But before I get into detail about that, let’s talk about the concept!

The 1860s Zelda dress taught me that it’s really fun to mix together historical costuming and cosplay. I attend anime conventions regularly, while I haven’t yet attended a historical costuming event, so making costumes that are recognizable at anime conventions and other fandom gatherings means I get a lot more occasions to wear the outfit.

When I cosplay, I almost never stick exactly to the character. I can’t help myself—I have to put my own twist on it somehow. So adding in historical clothing is a really fun way to do that. However, it’s pretty important to me to be recognizable to other people when cosplaying, and that’s doubly so when I’m not exactly replicating the character design. As a result, I like to focus my cosplay designs on widely recognized, popular characters. If I chose an obscure character that people would have a hard time recognizing normally, and then put a historical spin on it, it would probably be a pretty cool outfit… but it doesn’t give me the massive psychological reward of people getting excited when they recognize my character.

Enter: Historical Pokémon.

Long story short, I searched through the fandoms I’m familiar with to find easily-recognizable, easily-reinterpreted characters to adapt for historical costume, and Pokémon jumped out as a really great option. They’re well known, especially the classic ones; they’re not terribly detailed compared to many, many anime/video game characters out there; and the designs lend themselves well to experimentation.

Enter: Eeveelutions.

For those not familiar, Eevee is an adorable little fox/cat sort of creature that can evolve into a much wider variety of new forms based on what it’s exposed to. In the long term, this could result in a really damn cool rainbow of linked costumes. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves. I opted to start with Umbreon, a Dark-type Pokémon that evolves at night, and paired it with the 1890s walking outfit I’d been craving for some time.

Drawing of a woman wearing a flared black skirt, close-fitting black vest with gold buttons, and black shirtwaist. Also wearing a straw hat with long black ears.

My goal here seems pretty simple compared to the very-involved layer cake that was the Zelda dress. Thank goodness the skirt hems shrank down again after the ‘60s. There will be a wool walking skirt, a wool vest, and a cotton shirtwaist. The gold trim will probably be the same base as whatever it’s stitched to, and it will probably be stitched on permanently, but I’m not sure I’m ready to commit to permanent stitches for those ovals… the skirt would be more versatile without. We’ll see.

Oh, and there’ll be a hat. And ears. I don’t know how I’m going to do those. I’ll figure that out later.

So. The plan.

What I need:

  1. Combinations. I don’t technically need new underwear—my chemise and drawers would work fine. But I want them. Planned pattern: BlueFineGoods Edwardian Combinations
  2. Petticoat. Probably two; one specific to the 1890s, and one suitable for the Natural Form era that I’ll wear underneath for extra volume. Planned pattern: Truly Victorian 170
  3. Shirtwaist. Planned pattern: haven’t decided yet, but maybe Angela Clayton’s McCalls 8231.
  4. Skirt. Planned pattern: Black Snail Patterns 0414 Fan skirt
  5. Vest. Planned pattern: Black Snail Patterns 0220 1890s Ladies’ Vests
  6. Hat/ears
  7. Wig

What I already have:

  1. Corset
  2. Shoes (American Duchess 1890s Paris boots)

And so it begins!

Costuming

1860s Zelda: The Beginning

Blonde woman with elf ears wearing blue 1860s-style dress, parasol, and fan

On January 3rd, 2020, I woke up with the sudden idea that I needed to make a historical cosplay.

Now, I’ve been sewing since 2008 and cosplaying since around the same time, so this wasn’t as wild an idea as it could have been. Still, it did seem a little out of left field for me, since I’d never done a historical costume before and had no idea where to start. I didn’t even know what historical era I wanted to do. What I did know was that my partner and I usually go to two anime conventions a year, and I had previously remarked that it would be nice to have a formal cosplay for the formal ball at one of them. I’ve been a Zelda fan very nearly my whole life, so when I had this spark of an idea, it was quite specifically to do a historical interpretation of Princess Zelda (Breath of the Wild version).

I did a bunch of research that day, and eventually settled on the U.S. Civil War era, not least because my partner’s family used to do Civil War reenacting.* Thus, my partner was fully on board for a coordinating Link cosplay, and my mother-in-law would be an excellent resource for women’s clothing.

Then… I did nothing.

It wasn’t until almost exactly a year later that I started working on the costume itself, starting with the underpinnings. Ultimately, the whole process took a year and seven months to get to what I’m calling the “base” costume. The tricky thing with historical clothing is that you can’t just do the outer, visible clothing—you need to have the correct undergarments to create the right silhouette and structure. At a minimum, that means chemise, drawers, corset, crinoline/hoop skirt, and petticoat. Then, of course, I had to create a dress fit for a princess, and then find all the little pieces and accessories to top it all off. My goal is to document the process of the entire costume creation, because it’s going to take a lot more space than Instagram offers.

I’ll begin with my concept sketch, which I didn’t actually create until I’d started the project.

My plan was to use Simplicity 5724, a Martha McCain Fashion Historian pattern.

Woman wearing enormous white ballgown trimmed with red flowers and black lace

When I first started, I was still very new to the process of researching historical clothing and how to make things historically accurate, but generally the pattern seemed to be well-regarded. I decided to adapt Princess Zelda’s formal gown for this project. The curly designs on her sleeves transferred to the skirt petals, and I could copy the triangle design from the hem of the gown. After that, it was mainly a matter of representing the color scheme in a way that looked more or less recognizable. I also decided to borrow the Triforce brooch/medallion seen in several of her other costumes. I had vague intentions of inkle-weaving an appropriate trim for the bertha, which so far I’ve never done.

Series of screenshots of four Zelda outfits from Breath of the Wild

Zelda’s outfits in Breath of the Wild

Sketch of 1860s ballgown: blue main color, gold accents, white contrast panels

My sketch (the gloves would ultimately shorten to a more historically accurate length)

Up next: underpinnings, including my chemise, drawers, and ruffled petticoat.

*This project was initially nicknamed Civil War Zelda, and occasionally people refer to it as such. However, very shortly after I started working on it, January 6th, 2021 happened, and that name felt… uncomfy. So officially the costume name is “1860s Zelda.”

Uncategorized

Hello World

Woman with purple hair wearing a purple blazer and sunglasses standing in front of a garden with purple and white flowers

Hello, internet. This is not the first time I’ve started a blog. I’ve even kept up with one before for a non-zero quantity of time. But previous attempts, alas, have all fallen by the wayside eventually. This one, though, this will be different. Mainly because, for the first time, it’s attached to my name! It’s my very own site!

It turns out that forking over all of our content to large social media companies who control obscure algorithms and press for one type of content over another is maybe not the best plan. So that’s one reason I’m starting this up. The second, more important reason, is that I wanted somewhere that wasn’t Instagram for documenting some of my more involved projects, where I can provide as much text and as many photos as I want. The third reason is that I might eventually want to post some of the fiction I write every now and again.

So, an introduction. My name is Caroline, and I also go by Carrie. That’s never once been confusing in my life and I’ve absolutely never stumbled when identifying myself because “I can’t remember what I told you my name was.” My pronouns are she/her for convenience, but other sets of pronouns are also fine. I have an awesome partner, three adorable cats, and a horse. And I like to make things.

What kind of things? Soft, textile-y things mostly. One of my primary hobbies (Tier 1 hobbies? Alpha hobbies?) is sewing. I’ve been sewing since 2008 and I have a ~90% handmade wardrobe. I also knit, which is somewhere between a Tier 1 and Tier 2 hobby. The Tier 3 textile hobbies include spinning yarn (I own 3 spinning wheels and several spindles), weaving (not very often), and machine embroidery.

One new branch of the sewing hobby I’ve been exploring in the last couple of years has been historical costuming. I also cosplay for anime and video game conventions, and I’ve had a lot of fun combining the two. They both satisfy my love of research, and doing historical cosplay means I can give in to my absolute inability to follow a pattern (or character design) exactly. It also gives me something to work on that takes a long time, instead of filling my closet with more and more everyday clothes.

My other Tier 1 hobbies include writing scifi and fantasy (I’ve written a couple of novels that I’m currently seeking an agent for), gardening, and playing video games. Oh, and riding horses. The last one I often forget to include as a hobby because it’s more of a lifestyle. I have a beautiful gray Thoroughbred mare named Fifi. She’s a little spicy sometimes, and she’s also sweet. Depends on the day. Or the minute.

This blog is probably going to be primarily sewing-related, but as in my actual life, I always reserve the option to throw in anything else. I refuse to be pinned down! I’m constitutionally incapable of squishing myself into a single-aspect “brand”!

Anyway, for anyone that reads this, hope you enjoy!